|
Tom Sietsema's Annual Dining Guide
*** 1789
The only surprise at this 1962-vintage Georgetown address is how delicious it remains after all these decades. With her all-American crab cakes and rack of lamb, chef Ris Lacoste keeps the long-time patrons happy, offering food that is familiar but never dull; the crab cakes get a nice assist from lemon-thyme aioli, while the lamb nods to modern tastes with feta-laced potatoes. Yet Lacoste also makes food fashionistas feel at home, with her sublime grilled pork and Copper Rive king salmon; the pork takes on a Southwestern accent with black beans and salsa, and the salmon (a late spring treat) sports a delicate crust of Parmesan and brioche crumbs. Waiters in white jackets and an enforced dress code - gentlemen, don't leave home without a jacket - hark back to a more genteel era, as to the six intimate dining rooms spread over three stories. Early- and late-comers can take advantage of another of the restaurant's assets: a three-course, pre- and post-theater menu for $35. Book now to savor Lacoste's creations here, since the chef is considering a new venture.
1226 36th Street, NW (at Prospect Street). 202-965-1789. www.1789restaurant.com. Open: for dinner daily. All major credit cards. Entree prices: $18 to $38.
|
